Initial Field Preparation
Remove the skull from the carcass as soon as possible after harvesting. Make cuts behind the jaw line and around the base of the skull, keeping as much bone intact as possible. The sooner you begin processing, the easier removal of tissue and meat becomes.
Strip away all visible meat, skin, and tissue using a sharp knife. Pay attention to areas around the eye sockets, nasal cavity, and jaw joints where tissue tends to cling. Remove the lower jaw if you plan to mount only the upper skull, or keep it attached for a full skull display.
Removing Brain Matter & Soft Tissues
Extract the brain through the natural opening at the skull’s base. Use a long, thin implement like a coat hanger or specialized brain removal tool. This step prevents decay and speeds the cleaning process.
Remove eyes, tongue, and any remaining soft tissue. Work methodically around each socket and cavity. The more tissue you remove manually, the less work remains for the cleaning process.
Methods for Skull Cleaning
Dermestid Beetle Cleaning Place the skull in a colony of dermestid beetles, which naturally consume soft tissue while leaving bone intact. This method takes 1-3 weeks depending on skull size but produces excellent results without heat damage. Maintain colony temperature around 75-80°F and ensure adequate ventilation. Beetles will clean even intricate bone structures like nasal passages and inner ear bones.
Warm Water Maceration Submerge the skull in water heated to 100-120°F (lukewarm temperature). This gentle process allows bacteria to break down soft tissue naturally over 1-4 weeks. Change water every few days to prevent excessive odor buildup. The low temperature preserves bone integrity and prevents the cracking that can occur with higher heat methods. Tissue will gradually loosen and can be gently removed with tools as decomposition progresses.
Pressure Washing & Manual Cleaning
After skull cleaning, rinse the skull with cold water to stop the cooking process. Use a pressure washer on a low setting to remove loosened tissue from crevices and hard-to-reach areas.
Follow up with manual cleaning using old toothbrushes, dental picks, and small knives. Pay special attention to nasal passages, eye sockets, and the area around antler bases. Remove all visible tissue and membrane.
Degreasing the Skull
Submerge the cleaned skull in a degreasing solution. Dawn dish soap mixed with warm water works effectively for most skulls. Commercial degreasing agents provide faster results but cost more.
Soak for 24-48 hours, changing the solution if it becomes cloudy or develops an oily film. Skulls from older animals or those harvested during rutting season may require longer degreasing periods.
Whitening Process
Choose between hydrogen peroxide or bleaching powder for whitening. Hydrogen peroxide provides safer handling and better results. Mix a 3-6% solution and submerge the skull completely.
Monitor the whitening process closely. Most skulls achieve desired color within 6-12 hours. Overexposure weakens bone structure and creates an artificial appearance. Remove the skull when it reaches the desired shade.
Antler Protection During Processing
Wrap antlers in plastic wrap or aluminum foil before any chemical treatment. Bleaching agents and hydrogen peroxide can discolor antlers and damage their natural finish.
For skulls with damaged antler bases, use wood filler or epoxy to repair cracks before final preparation. Sand smooth and match the surrounding bone color.
Drying & Final Preparation
Allow the skull to air dry completely in a well-ventilated area. This process takes 24-48 hours depending on humidity and temperature. Proper drying prevents mold growth and ensures mounting materials adhere properly.
Apply a bone preservative or clear coat to protect the finished skull. These products prevent yellowing and provide long-term protection against environmental damage.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Never use household bleach (sodium hypochlorite) on skulls. This chemical weakens bone structure and causes deterioration over time. Stick to hydrogen peroxide or commercial skull whiteners.
Avoid boiling. High temperatures can crack bones and cause antlers to loosen. Maintain consistent, gentle heat throughout the process.
Don’t rush the degreasing step. Inadequate degreasing leads to yellowing and unpleasant odors in finished mounts. Take time to remove all oils and fats from the bone.
Professional vs. DIY Considerations
Home processing saves money but requires time, space, and proper equipment. Professional services cost more but provide consistent results and save time.
Consider your skill level and available resources before deciding. First-time processors often benefit from professional guidance or services for valuable trophy skulls.
Storage & Transport
Store cleaned skulls in dry, well-ventilated areas until mounting. Wrap in breathable materials like newspaper or cloth. Avoid plastic bags, which trap moisture and promote mold growth.
Transport skulls carefully to prevent damage. Use padded containers and secure antlers to prevent movement during shipping or travel.
The skull cleaning process requires patience and attention to detail. Proper preparation ensures your mount will look professional and last for years. Take time with each step, and don’t hesitate to seek professional help for valuable or sentimental pieces.
